However, if the controller does not move at all when left on a zone watering, but just sits there without moving or keeping time and without eventually advancing to the next watering zone, the problem is usually the Timing (short shaft) Motor, but can also involve gear problems such as ratchet failure within the Main Timing Gear Assembly. Ratchet failure within the Main Gear Assembly is usually easy to detect because it often results in small white flakes visible in the bottom of the Controller Case. Such ratchet failure is usually due to forcing the Main Dial Assembly backwards.

In such cases though, it is good to check and see if some cracked gears may not be aggravating the problem. Gears in older RC Series controllers frequently crack where the white Delrin gear joins the aluminum (metal) shaft. We do not offer replacement gears online because the gears differ between models and even differ amongst models produced in a specific year with gears made by sub-contractors.

Remember, we do offer One-Day-In-And-Out Repair Service that will completely repair your controller to like-new condition and have it back on it's way to you one working day after we receive it.

If the controller can be manually (turning big dial) moved through the watering zones with several zones operating okay, but some stations not operating, or operating poorly, the timer is not usually at fault. In such cases the problem is almost always with a valve diaphragm(s), cut wire(s), loose electrical connection(s) in field, or valve solenoid(s) that is causing problems on the non-operating zones.

One easy way to test a solenoid if you know where the valve is located, is to go out to that valve while having a helper turn the offending zone on and off repeatedly. If the solenoid is getting electric and is operating properly you will here it click each time it is turned on (Toro solenoids don't click). If the solenoid clicks and no water is visible, the probable cause would be the valve diaphragm. Diaphragms are supposed to be changed out every 4 or 5 years, but nobody bothers to do do it. If your solenoid doesn't click, you may have a wiring problem between the controller and the valve or the solenoid may be bad.

In such cases, check first where wires are visible, then check where any digging has occured, then check any spliced or wire-nutted wiring connections in valve boxes. When dealing with electrical problems, an inexpensive electric meter is a prerequisite. It's not important, it's vital. If you have a rain sensor, remeber it may be deactivating your watering ability. Rain sensor wiring also seems to be a favorite source for loose wiring connections.

Controller blowing fuses - this is usually caused by the wiring going out to the valves or bad solenoid, rather than by anything wrong within the controller. The most frequent culprit is a shorted-out solenoid. Next would be a short circuit (wires bare and rubbing together) in the wiring. You can use an electric meter to check your wiring easily. Simply use your electric meter set on resistance. It will read in Ohms.

To check resistance, first open up the controller and find the wire-nutted connections going out to the valves. disconnect and expose the ground wire (usually green) coming in from the valves. Then disconnect and test each zone valve hot wire (between hot wire and ground-common wire also going out to valves) , using your test meter. Generally acceptable readings would be between 20 and 50 ohms on your ohm meter or resistance setting on a multi-meter.

Touch your black probe to the common ground (usually green) wire coming in from the valves while touching your red probe to the zone wires (one by one) that are coming in from the valves. Basically you are checking the resistance on each zone. While doing this none of the wires being tested should be connected through to the controller wiring. You can write down the color code or just disconnect and test one hot wire at a time until you have tested all the zone valve wiring for resistance.

Your resistance between the common ground wire (coming in from the valves) and the zone hot wire(s) coming in from the valve(s) should be between 20 and 50 ohms. If you read under 20 or over 50, there is a wiring or solenoid problem on that zone. The most common problem found is a high (over 50) reading which usually means either a shorted solenoid or a shorted wire. The most common fault being a bad solenoid. Solenoids are electro-magnets and are not perpetual motion non-maintenance machines. They are definitely subject to damage by nearby lightning strikes that create an electrical field damaging the solenoid. Diaphragms and solenoids do require infrequent replacement as a matter of maintenance.

A particularly low or open resistance reading will usually indicate a cut wire or bad splice. 

So, if you get a high (over 50) reading between the common and hot wire going out to your zone valve(s), cut the wires close to where they connect to the solenoid valve, then retest and see if that results in a lower reading. If the reading drops dramatically, the solenoid is bad; replace it. If the reading stays essentially the same, you have a short in the wiring; find it.

Note - we have no parts left for these controllers.